As boaters, if not as individuals, we are obsessively goal oriented. Last winter we realized our objective by motoring to, and returning from, the Bahamas. Our plan for the winter of 2012 was to continue past that now familiar island chain and continue in a lazy southerly crawl across the Tropic of Cancer into the crystalline waters of the Turks and Caicos Islands.
We left the relative bustle of George Town for the more remote Calabash Bay on nearby Gaillot Cay. This wide, crescent shaped bay is perched on the northernmost tip of Long Island (not to be confused with the one in NY, of course.) It is shallow and deceptively flat, as surge from the nearby ocean side rips around the edge of the island to create long swells. The anchorage is solitary, and the side to side sway of Let's Dance is lulling to the senses. We depart early the next morning and are gleefully escorted out of the bay by a pod (herd? bevy? posse?) of dolphin. They love playing in the wake created by the bow of the ship and we never tire of watching their fun.
Day two takes us fifty-eight nautical miles, down the eastern shore of Long Island to an even more remote anchorage named Little Harbor. The first hours of the passage, as we rounded the top of the island, were pretty rough and I chewed a Bonine to ward off the potential of sea sickness. We are not sure if this OTC medication is pronounced "Bo-neen" or "Bo-nine", but one day last year when I was at the helm in especially rough seas, Bill came up the stairs from the staterooms and very thoughtfully asked if he could bring me up a "bovine." Holy cow! Are there cattle in the hold?
Naturally, fishing lines were deployed, and this day, we prevail. A spectacular dolphin fish, or mahi mahi, could not resist the brightly hued green and black "Flash Dancer." The hook, hidden in the Dancer trailed about 8 feet behind the attractor, a glossy orange and black bird. It was just too delicious for him to pass up.
So, our lead increases in the Captain Bill vs. fish competition. This tummy pleaser weighed in at 25 pounds with a length of 52 inches! Bravo, Bill! Fresh fish on our menu tonight!
We arrived at Little Harbor at 1610 hours and dropped our anchor in the completely empty bay. Alone again! Perfect! But not for long, of course. We were soon joined by "Twilight" and "Karma" and, finally, last to arrive, "Tangueray." Two sail boats and a Grand Banks trawler. They all knew each other and visited both over the radio and by dinghy. The trawler guy took his dinghy out for a quick ride to the other end of the bay and as he zoomed back to "Twilight" he was catapulted off the little boat into the water! Ouch! The dinghy's engine did not quit and it spun in dizzying circles as the young rider quickly swam away from it. The Love Me Tender was secured in her usual spot on the upper aft deck, so we were powerless to help, but "Karma" raced to the scene. Soon the jilted seaman and "Karma's" captain were able to stop the engine and the day was saved. A real rescue at sea!
The following day we added another 57 miles to the odometer and settled into a day on the open ocean. We truly were on our own as we continued south....the only sighting of another boat was of the "Chiquita Bremen", a massive 512 foot container ship with a beam of 72 feet and a 26 foot draft. That's a lot of bananas! Her closet point of approach, which we can calculate with our snazzy AIS system, was 1.3 nautical miles. That is plenty close for us, but she probably would have liked a closer look at our dance card.
Now we have reached the Acklins Group -- perhaps you've heard of them? Crooked Island, Long Cay, Fish Cay and Guana Cay make up this virtually uninhabited chain of islets at the bottom of the Bahamas. The government ferry comes twice a week and if you need propane you can send your tank on the mailboat to Nassau and it will be returned to you in a week. Island time. Flamingos abound in the inner flats and the bonefishing is said to be stellar. We stop for the night at yet another gloriously vacant harbor -- this one named Attwood Harbour on Lady Slipper Cay. A thin white sand ring defined the edge of the anchorage -- clear water, light wind, sunset coming soon. Drinks and snacks on the flybridge, another day well spent.
Next stop is the ever popular Abraham's Bay on Mayaguana Island. Here is some "Need-to-Know" information from the chart book:
Banks: None on island
Churches: Baptist and Jehovah's Witness
Dinghy landing: Government dock - very shallow, channel marked with sticks
Laundry: Inquire locally for hand washing
Marina: None on island
Medical Services: Government clinic with 24 hour nurse. Doctor lives on Inagua
Police: VHF 16 BOYS IN BLUE
We are on a mission to reach the Turks and Caicos ahead of a weather front, so there is no time to explore this southernmost Bahamian island. Maybe on the way back; maybe not. It is a wonderful anchorage, though, reef protected, with light winds and bright stars. We leave refreshed for the final leg of the journey as we depart to a sunrise to remember. The ocean is deep through the Caicos Passage, and the color of India ink. Deep, deep blue/black and, astonishingly calm.
The road to Mayaguana......another tale of life on the high seas. Hope you find your own iguana.
Let's Dance....Carol and Bill
