Monday, August 22, 2011

Ports of Call

Like most boaters, we choose our anchorages, at least in part, by the quality of the reviews in Waterway Guides and other sources.  Areas are rated according to their ease of entry, holding, protection from winds and amenities (or lack thereof) for crew.  And,  because this year we decided to try some new spots, we chose an anchorage between Dix and High Islands about 15 miles off the Maine coast from Camden.  We were not disappointed.  When we arrived in late afternoon sunshine, there were about seven sailboats and 2 power boats already in place.  They have Waterway Guides, too, I guess.  As always, we opted for a back row seat and dropped our hook behind the crowd in about 24 feet of water.

In the 1800‘s, Dix Island was home to a major quarry which produced many of the huge granite stones that became centerpieces of some of Washington’s most impressive buildings.





At one time there were reported to be over 2,000 workers living on the tiny island, but today only a few isolated souls call it home.  The current residents own the island and their numbers are not likely to increase exponentially as they eschew electricity and pump their own water by hand.  Hmmmm….not much chance that we would be interested in a second home here.  However, they don’t mind visiting boaters going ashore as long as you “follow the path” and don’t mess with them.  So we did.  Follow the path, that is.






Bill directed the Love Me Tender to the small, rough sand and boulder beach where the trail began.  The locals had thoughtfully mowed a swath of grass, and lined it with homemade “path” signs so visitors would not go astray.  The island was very scenic, covered with pines, yarrow, rose bushes, apple trees and wild berries -- both black and raspberries.  Yum!  The path wove all the way around the island, and my only moment of hesitation was when a small (but fierce) snake slithered across the grassy walkway.  He got my attention!  “Okay, Bill, why don’t you walk in front now, please.”







The walk was very pleasant and it felt good to be on land for a short while.  When we pulled up the anchor to leave the next morning, we were the last boat left in the area.  A lone seal peeked above the waterline up ahead to wish us bon voyage, and we smiled back.  Bill thought it might have been Skippy (a small friend he named last summer) recognizing us… but I don’t think so.  Something not quite right about the whiskers.  Anyway,  we motored north to another popular anchorage off the eastern end of Vinalhaven Island -- Seal Bay.  The guides give this area top marks in every field.  And it is no wonder:  the place is gorgeous!  The entry into the bay is fairly tight and you really have to heed the charts as rock outcroppings lie in wait for the unobservant.  We successfully navigated our way in and found the perfect spot for the night.  By now, we are pretty spoiled by all the starlit skies and calm waters.



We spent my birthday exploring Seal Bay with the plan of leaving the next day for Camden.  Just when you think the world is your oyster…the fog shuts you down.  Drippy skies, zero visibility, fog everywhere, the decision is easily made.  How about another day in Seal Bay?  Brilliant idea!  We read and write and study charts and manuals and cook and clean and otherwise entertain ourselves for another 24 hours.  Not a bad way to spend a day.

We’re now in Camden, Maine and it’s a great town for friends -- both old and new.  Yesterday we noticed a fellow Nordhavn in the harbor and scooted over in the Love Me Tender to introduce ourselves.   The owners turned out to be a nice couple from Florida and we invited them over for a drink. Then today, lunch at a charming, old fashioned diner in Thomaston with Haig Point friend Debbie Hull.  Dinner tonight with Blane and Anne Bowen whom we met last winter on Man O War cay in the Bahamas……all fun treats for us and new people to tell our stories to as well.

Tomorrow I leave for a week in Highlands, NC to help my mom move into the “mountain home” and the Captain will be left to his own devices in Camden Harbor.  He assures me that his list of boat projects is long and that he will not be lonely, but really, after being within shouting distance of each other for all these months, however will he manage?

Let’s Dance…..Carol & Bill