Wednesday, April 9, 2014

Man O' War





The winter of 2014 will be one for the books for captain and crew of the motor vessel Let's Dance.  After an uneventful crossing from Florida to Freeport, Grand Bahama Island in January, I turned in my wet suit and my water wings and flew back to the states.  I spent the remainder of the winter in Charleston, soaking up the history and culture of the many-steepled city.  Bill, on the other hand, soaked up mostly rays as he single-handed Let's Dance through the currents and swells of Atlantic waters.

Our "me" time provided learning experiences for us both which we were happy to share once reunited in April when I flew to Marsh Harbor to reclaim my naval rank and maritime status aboard our good ship.  For my part, I discovered that.........well, actually, I'm still working on that.  Captain Bill revealed that while alone at sea he never, not even once, made a bad decision, a wrong turn, a miscalculation.  Hmmmm.  Perhaps there is a lesson here for me!  I will think on it.

For one week of his mostly solo voyage, Bill was joined by son Paul for a fishing extravaganza.  They limited their range to the deep waters around Eleuthera and had quite a lot of success.  Mahi mahi, barracuda, shark and amberjack fell for their lures as the guys trolled the offshore waters of the islands.  Fresh fish and ice cream for all!  (But not together, I hope.)




So, the first stop on the reunion tour of Carol and Bill was Man O' War Cay.  Having exercised only his mind for the past three months, Bill was more than ready to stretch his sea legs on an island walk.  We set out to revisit sites from our first time on this cay three years ago and to find out if some friends were on island.





Our route took us up to the Queen's Highway, a nicely paved narrow road that could just accommodate a pair of golf carts passing.  We stayed to the side, seeking the shade of tree-sized crotons, overgrown grape trees and glorious bougainvillea.  Soon we saw the sign for Lola's and succumbed to a loaf of her homemade bread.  Lola is getting on now, and probably won't have too many more years of baking and selling her delicious, warm breads and sweet rolls from her golf cart, so we were pleased to have gotten the last fresh loaf this day.



We followed the Queen's Highway to its end, where it changed to a one lane gravel path, to locate "Seaglass" -- winter home of Anne and Blaine Bowen from Toronto.  Their compound of teak-shuttered buildings was a welcome sight and we had a great catch up visit with Anne.  As we left, she gifted us with hothouse tomatoes, basil, parsley and even a bunch of tiny, delicious bananas.  Many thanks, Anne.



We spent a few days at this friendly marina on Man O' War, enjoying meals at the Dock & Dine, chatting with fishermen and admiring the locally made Albury boats.  Very relaxing!




Our next port of call was Green Turtle Cay Marina -- another personal favorite of mine and the site this particular weekend of a local wedding party.  And yes, they could, and did, party!  Thundering drum beats got my attention around midnight and I watched Junkanoo style paraders dance their way down the dock.....revelers costumed with tall, feathered headdresses and masks.  Quite the festive group!

We took a golf cart into New Plymouth the next afternoon, looking for a mobile pre-paid data "top-up" card to extend the life of our depleted internet account.  Guess what?  The Batelco office is open on Thursdays; this was Friday.  No luck there.   Lunch sounded promising, so we went in search of Sundowner's.  They have signs posted on trees all over the island, so we went to check it out.  The bar was closed up tight for us at noontime and apparently at all times for poor Irene! 



Leaving the land of marinas behind, we motored north for a few miles and anchored just off Crab Cay.  Three years ago the narrow, tidal beach and shallow waters between Crab and Fiddler Cays were home to dozens and dozens of sea biscuits.  I couldn't get enough of them then, and I yearned for more now.  Humoring me, the Captain steered us to the exact lat and lon as last visit where we launched the Love Me Tender and set off on the hunt.



At first, the pickings looked slim, but when our eyes adjusted to the sandy landscape, we found them.  Fewer this year, but still prevalent in the shallow turtle grass.  Most were already dead and departed, but the few that we found alive were quickly returned to their watery homes.  Back aboard Let's Dance I arranged the 22 little sailors in rows to be admired.  Next morning, one had broken rank, but after seeing my chagrin, Bill admitted to moving the little guy just to see my reaction.  Thereafter, I corralled the biscuits inside a heavy line in the cockpit so there could be no further attempts at desertion.



The reunion tour is going fast, and it's time to continue the voyage northward, so we spent one last night anchored out under a crescent moon and scattered stars before heeding the weather warnings beginning to come over the airwaves.  Time to find another marina and tie down for the winds blowing our way. 

Let's Dance......Carol and Bill