Saturday, October 13, 2012

Traveling Shoes

Fall is here and we have donned our traveling shoes and headed north. The provisions for a short, six week voyage are pulled together, onboard entertainments and diversions gathered, the fridge and freezer stocked, and our duffels packed for any kind of weather. We are off to explore the cities of the Chesapeake Bay -- DC, Baltimore and Annapolis!

Captain Bill and friend Bernie Mansheim, who recently added the responsibilities of Officer First Class to his Chief Medical Officer duties, left Haig Point early on a Tuesday morning - clear skies and calm seas predicted for their offshore passage north. Less than sixty hours later (304 nautical miles), they arrived at the River Dunes Marina near Oriental, NC. I took the inland route and drove for 8 hours to arrive at the same destination. Bernie and I did a super quick swap -- I traded him a used SUV, for his drive back south, for a low mileage trawler with a great looking Captain. I win!!

Let's Dance is in great form, and in just a few short days we arrive at the 10 mile wide mouth of the Potomac River. It will take us two days to travel the 95 miles from the Chesapeake Bay to Washington, DC. We begin the journey up the Potomac, pushed by a small but helpful one knot current. The river is quiet, smooth and surprisingly devoid of other travelers. We pass only a few other pleasure boats (or rather, they pass us), no commercial or military vessels and only a handful of local fishermen.

Just after lunch on day one of the Potomac cruise, I notice on the chart that we are nearing the "Middle Danger Zone". What? Did we already pass through the "Lower Danger Zone"? Did we miss it? It is soon made clear as a young, strong voice comes over the VHF radio:

"This is Range Control Boat Four calling northbound white trawler near red nun 14A."

We check around -- he's talking to us! Captain Bill responds, "This is the trawler Let's Dance! How can we help you?"

RCB #4: "We are conducting tracking exercises in this area for the Navy. Captain, you must move your vessel to the far side of the river to be out of the line of fire." Okay, sir! Yes, sir!

He very helpfully walks us through the marks on the chart we need to follow to stay out of the danger zone, while assuring that we will have plenty of water to keep us off the shore. Lucky us! He then notes that today there will, actually, be no live gunfire -- it's all just practice, but he had us going there for a while.

Day two on the river provides even less marine traffic as we glide past Quantico, Mount Vernon, Fort Washington and Alexandria. We know we're getting close to our destination, however, when low-flying air traffic chases us up the river to the edge of Reagan National. Past the airport, we veer slightly to starboard to round the tip of the East Potomac Park into the Washington Channel and our temporary home -- the Capitol Yacht Club. Dockmaster "Big Kelvin" and his trainee assistant help with our lines and we have arrived!




The Capitol Yacht Club -- just the name evokes images of luxurious yachts with smartly uniformed crews awaiting the travel whims of domestic and foreign dignitaries. Perhaps a Presidential yacht even -- the Manitou, Dolphin or Sequoia. Alas, the Capitol Yacht Club is only home to a rag-tag group of live-aboards and is strategically located directly beneath the helicopter flight path from the White House to the Pentagon. For safety and, apparently, maximum noise effect, they mostly travel in groups of three or more. Definitely not conducive to relaxed, waterfront living.

Morning one of the DC adventure we check out the sprawling fish market adjoining the marina. Tons of fish and crustaceans from the area to admire and consider for dinner. We were especially taken by the volume of crabs --- bins and bins of them. And we learn from "Mr. Crab" himself that, in addition to the obvious pink bootie/blue bootie method for determining the sex of a crab, there is local lore to ponder. To demonstrate, he held up two crabs, bellies to the front. The females, he said, have the outline of the Capitol Building on their tummies while the males of the species sport a distinct outline of the Washington Monument on theirs. Really, I can't make this stuff up! 


 

For the next three days we do the tourist thing to the max -- and touring Washington is not for sissies. We rode the Big Bus Red Line and the Blue Line for the overview; explored the Smithsonian Castle; took in lunch and a tom tom demo at the American Indian Museum; soared through the Air and Space exhibits; gaped at modern art at the Hirshhorn and cried at the Holocaust Memorial. 




 

For a busman's holiday we took a short river cruise aboard the "Nightingale" in choppy Potomac waters. (Let's Dance has a smoother ride, better food and a cuter crew....just FYI!) We rode the Metro to meet up with Daufuskie friends Laura and Jim Hageman (in DC to welcome a new grandchild) for lunch at Bullfeathers. Always fun to see folks from home! After, Bill and I toured the Capitol and a tiny part of the Library of Congress.

Our brains are now full to overflowing and our feet are tired....time to bring this leg of the trip to an end and head north to Baltimore. Just for fun, Bill checked the Amtrak alternative.....a dizzying 32 minute train ride at a cost of $16 or three lazy days and nights aboard Let's Dance. No contest!


Let's Dance......Carol and Bill